Myanmar, the golden country

Some of my friends warmed me saying that it is already two years late to visit Myanmar. I must disagree with this. The main reason is, I traveled during the low season - end of March - and I barely saw tourists during my trip. Making this choice probably changed my whole appreciation of the country, and I couldn't be more glad I've done it. 

Having only 9 days in the country, I had to makes choices in terms of destination. I landed in Yangon, visited Bagan, Mandalay and Inle lake. I took 3 flights and 1 night bus which was happily surprising. The bus was very comfy, they gave us food and drinks + a blanket. If you're not a big fan of the Burmese airlines, you can travel by bus (or by boat between Mandalay and Bagan). The travel hours are convenient, but the journeys are sometimes a bit long. 

There are lots to see in all the cities listed above. I must admit that I have a preference for Bagan and Inle lake. However, I found Yangon pleasant, and more interesting than Mandalay.

See below for all the details!

Oh, and yes, you will find ATM wherever you're going! 

Travel agent - to book transport tickets and/or hotels

Min Than Htut - min@pronititravel.com

He is reliable and happy to answer all sorts of questions! 

Yangon

Indicative prices

Airport to city center - 7,000 kyats

Downtown to bus station - 5,000 kyats

Downtown to Schwedagon pagoda - 2,000 kyats

Downtown to Inya lake - 2,5000 kyats

Inya lake to airport - 4,0000 kyats

Restaurants

Nilar Win's: 377 Maha Bandoola Rd - for a great lassi & yogurt!

Fuji Coffee House: 116 University avenue rd - great coffee and decent European dishes

Bagan

Indicative prices

Airport to Old Bagan - 5,000 kyats

1 day bicycle - 1,5000 kyats

1 day electric bicycle - 7,000 kyats

Restaurants

Santhidar: Main rd, between the Old and New Bagan (Myin Kaba) - a must go! Familial restaurant, great food served by generous people. 

Black Bamboo: near Yar Khin Thar Rd (Nyaung Oo) - for both local and French cuisine

Lacquerware shop

Golden Cuckoo: Myin Ka Par village. Large choice of products with different quality. Negotiation possible! 

Sand Paintings

999 Shop: at the end of Yar Khin Thar Rd (Nyaung Oo). Incredible quality, more expensive than what you can find in temples. Only a few designs available. Fixed price, you can maybe negotiate around 2,000 k. 

Great sunrise, with nobody else than yourself and a few people

Schwesandaw and Bulethi temples

Mandalay 

Indicative prices

Airport to city center - 4,000 kyats in a shared taxi

1 day bicycle - 1,500 kyats

Visit of 3 cities by motorbike + driver - 15,000 kyats

Add 3,000 to see the sunrise on U Bein bridge

Restaurant

Marie Min: 27th St, between 74th and 75th St - nice and quiet place, good for lunch and drinks!

Inle lake 

Indicative prices

Airport to Nyaungshwe - 25,000 kyats

Nyaungshwe to airport - 15,000 kyats

1 day bicycle - 1,5000 kyats

Cross the lake by boat - 6,000 kyats / boat

1 day boat trip - 15,000 kyats / boat 

Add 3,000 kyats to go down to the south canal 

Restaurant

Four Sisters: 105 Nam Pan, near the jetty - the place is nothing special but the food is great! One unique menu served and cooked by the family. Good, hearty, and very cheap!

Massage

Thae Su Family: 4,000 kyats for 1 hour massage. Follow the signs on the road! On Kyone Yoe Rd. 

A marine paradise: El Nido

Palawan was on my bucket list for far too long. After hesitating between Coron and El Nido, it is finally in El Nido that we set foot on the ground; after a very long journey.

Indeed, it's 3h flight from Singapore to Manila, 1h20 to reach Puerto Princesa and 5 long hours drive to El Nido.
The journey makes you appreciate El Nido probably more than it should. But who will complain about that?!

We rented a boat the next day to discover the beauty of the site by ship track (not that there are 50 other options anyway).
The scenery was absolutely beautiful. From small lagoons to bigger ones, we discovered fabulous beaches and places. The color of the water was as blue as it can be in your imagination.
As for the snorkeling, it was great but nothing tremendous. Filipinos used to use dynamites for fishing, which literally killed all the corals. Somehow, great fishes are still passing by as well as some turtles and rays, which makes it enjoyable.

Once on the ground, you may have a dinner on the main beach and chose your dish among all the fishes that are waiting to be cooked.
Ending up your day on the waterfront is a great gift to yourself. Just enjoy the sunset, and top up with a cocktail!

Transport

• Flight with Cebu Pacific from Singapore to Puerto Princesa
• Van from Puerto Princesa to El Nido with Day Tripper Palawan, Eulen Joy Express or Lexus for 600 PHP or 800 PHP. The tickets can be bought directly at the airport. About 5h30 for one way. Don't forget to choose your seat when you're booking, the ones at the back are terrible! 

Accommodation

• Treetops - They have won the award for the best hotel in El nido from Trip Advisor in 2013, and it's not for nothing. The service is simply perfect, the staff is adorable and always willing to give good tips. Breakfast is not included but it is worth it to take it. It comes with fresh bread, fresh juice, fruits, coffee and a dish of your choice. The room is decent and clean, and the little terrace is appreciated. 
  Location wise, it is very quiet and 10min from the town, but the staff will always be able to book a tricycle for you (30 PHP). Walking distance from Coron Coron beach.
  They don't have a website. Contact David for more info
• Rico’s Cottages directly located on the beach with a nice view and a little terrace

Restaurant

• Any restaurant on the beach will propose tasty fresh fishes and shellfish
• La Salangane for a nice dinner - I would avoid their hotel as their rooms aren't great but they propose a good food menu with local and european dishes, fresh fishes + nice cocktails
• Mezzanine for nice cocktails and desserts. The view is stunning and the place surprisingly not crowded at all

Activities

• Private boat for the day + lunch included and snorkelling equipment - mix of A and C tour: 1,200 PHP
• Speed boat up to 9 people + lunch + equipment: 1,900 PHP – booked with La Salangane PADI center
• Watch the sunset from Coron Coron beach

There is NO ATM in El Nido

The Krakatau Experience

Camping: the word that had disappeared from my vocabulary a very long time ago! I do not know if I am reconciled with it, but I must admit that it was an experience.

But before we evoke it, let's go back to the beginning.
We arrived in Jakarta on Friday evening and had one night in the Indonesian capital. Our driver picked us up early Saturday morning. The idea was to get off Jakarta the fastest possible as we had a few hours drive to reach the north of Java, so we picked a hotel located on the west side of the city.
We arrived mid-morning in Carita, where a boat was waiting for us. The boat trip was about 2 hours long to the Krakatau. We first stopped in front of the volcano to do some snorkeling.

Surprisingly, the corals were beautiful and the life down there is very active, even though the volcano is still alive.

After this refreshing stop, we switched for a much sporty outfit to climb the Krakatau. I must categorize this climb as an "open to all level, beginners welcome"! It is in fact quite easy and lasts overall only 30-40 minutes to approach the crater. Unfortunately you can't go too high since the beast is still alive, but the view is already stunning from the "first level".

As for the night, we had the choice between staying in a 'hotel' that didn't inspired us, or try the camping mode. We went for the second option. Mainly because we wanted to enjoy the wonderful view of the volcano, by establishing as a base, this black sand beach which was completely deserted.

We had a great barbecue for dinner, cooked by our guides; and the Krakatau as the eye-catcher.

The night wasn't much relaxing due to our choice of accommodation, but waking up in front of the volcano definitely made my day.
Straight after breakfast we snorkeled in two great spots full of different varieties of coral & fishes. We even had the chance to follow about 15 dolphins on our way back to Carita. This surprise perfectly closed our week end!

Schedule:

• Flight from Singapore to Jakarta on a Friday Evening
• 1 Night in Jakarta 
• Pick up on the Saturday at 7 am
• Transfer in a private car to Carita
• Snorkeling at Rakata Island
• 1 Night - camping - in Sretung Island in front of the Krakatau
• Climb the Krakatau for the Sunrise on Sunday morning
• Snorkeling
• Way back to Jakarta
• Flight to Singapore

Guide - Thom from Krakatau Adventure
Price for 8 people - 9,500,000 IDR
Includes car transfer, boat transfer,  food, 1 camping night, camp gears and snorkeling equipment
(does not include the 40 facial wipes you will use in 2 days to 'clean' your body!).

Flights with Jetstar - 100 SGD
Friday at 8.05 pm
Sunday at 8.30 pm

BOROBUDUR !... and Prambanan

Yogyakarta: How awful!?
Pedestrians are strongly discouraged from walking down the street since there are no sidewalks at all, and the city is noisy and yet, terribly annoying!
This being, two days are enough to visit the surroundings!

The two temples to visit: Borobudur and Prambanan are both located opposite from each other. Prambanan is 20 minutes east of Yogya and Borobudur is 45 minutes up north.

We spent the Saturday afternoon at Prambanan, this park that contains hundreds of Hindu temples. We took the time to walk to the most remote sites and to read the few explanations that are on the way. Although much smaller, the site looks like a miniature of Angkor temples.
We visited so slowly that when we returned to the starting point, night fell, and a few well placed lights were illuminating the main temple.

On the next day we woke up very early to see the sunrise from the top of Borobudur. However, the mist spoiled the party and we've catched the first glimpse of the sun 'only' around 7 am. No regret, we then requested a guide at the site entrance for 1 hour tour, to give us some more insights.

According to our schedule, it would have been better to pick an hotel near Borobudur, since Yogyakarta has no interest whatsoever.

As for the Sunday afternoon, it is possible to climb the Merapi, relax in the pool or/and a spa, or to visit some other areas (Sultan place, etc.).


Indicative prices
Yogya city center to Prambanan (round trip) - 140,000 IDR
Yogya city center to Borobudur - driver for 4 hours - 250,000 IDR
Borobudur Sunset tour - starts at 4.30am - 380,000 IDR
Prambanan ticket entrance - 180,000 IDR
Borobudur 1h guided tour - 100,000 IDR

Flights from Singapore to Yogyakarta
Saturday: Air Asia, 11.10 am - 12.25 pm
Sunday: Tiger Air, 6 pm - 9.15 pm

Restaurant
Gadjah Wong on Jalan. Gejayan Soropadan 79-D
They serve great European food at a cheap price. A must go if you're sick of Asian cuisine! 
The restaurant is set in beautiful surroundings. Different atmospheres according to where you decide to seat (local, jazzy, etc).

This vintage venue - KILO

A few plants, white walls, sofas randomly arranged; Kilo's lounge bar does not seem like much at first, but stay longer, seat in one of the comfy couch and start to sip one of their nice cocktail.

The bar opens at 8 pm. As it is referenced as a 'late night cocktail bar', you will find the place empty. However it's a great time to come to have a chat with your friend, and enjoy the original view on the Stadium. The deep house music in the background creates a different atmosphere enhanced by the vintage furniture around.

If you start to be hungry, you can ask the staff to get a table at their restaurant. It is usually fully booked, I recommend to call in advance to have your seat reserved, but you can give it a try and let's see how it works!

Lucky you if you end up going to the 2nd floor of the building to try their food! The restaurant is also simply decorated. It has open windows on the river and plants slowly growing in the corners.
I advise to share a few of their incredible appetizers among your peers. Once you have a look at their menu, you won't event know which one you fancy over a second one: everything seems (and is!) succulent!

I went for the stuffed roasted figs with blue cheese, bacon and walnuts, and the black and white prawn ravioli. No words to add, it was simply succulent. As for the desserts, the churros were nothing incredible, but the lava cake was delightful.
The hardest is by far, to make your choice. But I believe all dishes remain great.

You can go back to the bar on the 8th floor to digest with a nice cocktail in hand. The music will then beats harder, and people will start filling up the place.

Kilo is now throwing some parties on Fridays and Saturdays and bringing unusual DJ's (deep house, electro, jazz, etc). Check out their facebook page for more details. It's apparently very crowded, but it's definitely worth the try.

To conclude, I will come back:
- for the atmosphere and the - not so underground but great - music
- for their amazing food & cocktails
- just to escape from the traditional bars in Singapore
- to see how the place look like during their parties!

Kilo 
66 Kampong Bugis (MRT Lavender)
2nd Floor for the restaurant
8th Floor for the lounge bar

Bocuse Catering School

Lost between woods and highways (even the MRT does not come that far!), the Bocuse Catering School still manages to draw us to its restaurant thanks to the unbeatable value for money of the food served.

Prepared by students in order to fund their projects, the Institute offers sessions to the public to savor their food, roughly, about 4 times a year. For the incredible price of $ 25 you can taste three dishes inspired from our tasteful French cuisine: lobster, lamb confit, scallops, lava cakes are on the menus.
They also try to create pleasant atmospheres by choosing various themes: you can be immersed in a jungle or re discover the French capital through the decoration.

To subtly pair your food, either bring your own wine, or ask for a $25 bottle of their great cave (you can bring one at home as well for the same price)

Food wise, the menus vary for each session, but it is never disappointing.

It's a pain in the neck to reach the place, but it's all worth it! Furthermore, their sessions only take place once in a while, and I believe each of us is able to find a cab to get there!

Venue: Chez West
Block 2, Level 3, ITE College West
1 Choa Chu Kang Grove
To subscribe to their newsletter and be aware of the next sessions write to Lydia
Tables are limited and it get booked very quickly!

Swimming, Diving & Golfing in Pulau Tioman

After two years in Singapore, the recurring question: whaaaat, you never been to Tioman yet!!!?, will finally stop today! Sigh, I will probably have a drink on that later this week.
I will then be able to answer the following one: which island do you prefer between Perhentians, Rawa and Tioman. And my answer is: ALL!

I believe they all have their own characteristics. While Rawa is meant to partying, I went to Tioman for two things: diving and playing golf.

After listening to wise advice, I went to the Dive Center near the Berjaya Hotel. Not necessarily warm, the master diver who accompanied me was nonetheless very professional. I did one dive in Renggis Island that allowed me to see two turtles, many clown fishes and even more fishes that I do not know the name.

To regain strength we ate dinner in a small restaurant on the beach close the Berjaya. The grilled fishes were delicious, and the drinks, as fresh as expected!

The next morning was dedicated to golf. I don't have much elements of comparison, but I must say that I was blown away by the golf course.
Located between sea and hills, I just had to keep my head up to enjoy the view.
The buggy is almost essential to avoid walking in the heat for such a long time. Don't forget your hat and your sun block!

It was a perfect activity that nicely ended the week end. I found that it was a bit too short to go to Tioman for two days, mainly because you need to take the ferry on the Saturday morning if you can't catch up the last one on Friday. However it's an easy getaway from Singapore, even more enjoyable in low season when all families have not yet added Tioman to their schedule.


Berjaya Tioman Dive Center on Tekek Beach
Advanced booking is recommended:
tioman.dive@berjayahotel.com
Price for 1 Dive in Renggis Island: MYR 123
Recommended dives: Renggis and Labas

Berjaya Golf Club
tioman.golf@berjayahotel.com
Price for 2 people:
MYR 260 for 9 holes, rent of golf shoes & a buggy + 6 golf balls


Driver: from Singapore to Mersing
Leaving Saturday 2.30am (or late Friday) and coming back Sunday around 11pm
SGD 450 in a van for 10 people - with night drive surcharge
Sham: +6019 772 6179 (on whatsapp)
or +65 8342 5715
No need to get off the van at the borders. thanks to his MVP van accreditation.

Speed boat from Mersing to Tioman: 1.30/2h.
Price: SGD 35 for two ways
Schedule changing every week.

Wakeboard in Punggol

I must admit that wakeboarding has become over the months one of my favorite activity in Singapore. And no, I'm not talking about the 'cable ski park', I am talking about real wakeboarding, the one you do, towed by a boat. 

The most annoying part of this activity is undeniably, to go to the Marina Country Club. You have two options: get a taxi, or stop at Punggol MRT and take the shuttle from there. 

However, the fun starts when you reach the club: look for your driver, get on the boat, put some sun cream on, and be ready to ride the wave. 

Whether you are a total beginner, or an experienced rider, you will be able to find a boat driver that will suit your level, and provides accurate advice. 

You may wonder if the water is cleaner up north, the answer is no, you will still need to do a body scrub once home. But it doesn't prevent you from appreciating the afternoon on the boat! 

Ryders @ Ponggol
600 Punggol 17th Avenue
Marina Country Club
Singapore 829734

Around $70/80 for 3 hours with a boat of 5 people (count 30-45 minutes per person).
Advance booking is highly recommended.

Paddle hard in a Dragon Boat

When you start talking about your dragon boat experience, the first question that comes up is: 'A dragon what??!'

The dragon boat is, to grossly simplify, a kind of Chinese rowing. 

The crew consists of 20 people who are paddling the same pace, following the 2 persons in front of the boat. 

As the German Team warmly welcomes everybody (even novices like me), I have decided to join their Saturday session for a trial. 

Someone in their crew gently took care of all beginners. She explained the rituals around the sport and the competitions, taught us the basics to paddle properly, and gave some useful tips to avoid any sinking situation!

After the introduction, you will then slowly run up the river until you see the CBD. 

The boat trip makes it pleasant as it overlooks the Garden by the bay, the Marina Bay Sands and the Flyer. It's also an opportunity to discover some parts of Singapore through its river (Stadium, Tanjong Rhu, etc.) and to forget that your arms start burning! 

But the best is yet to come: since the team is sponsored by Paulaner, you need to give your best. Paddle 'harder', and come back to the ground and enjoy a pint of beer with the rest of the team! A nice way to share your experience and talk with other paddlers, either beginners or experienced. A great activity, to do with friends, tourists, or even by yourself if you 'd like to meet new people in Singapore!

Contact: Gautier
gautier.kerkhove@gmail.com
Price: 10$ for the session, including draft beers at the end!
Meeting point: Every Saturday at 2pm - Kallang MRT

Hitting Indonesian Volcano - Mount Bromo & Kawah Ijen

Climbing two volcano in three days is definitely not the most relaxing trip you could do, especially because you need to wake up at crazy hours to enjoy the experience. However, that's worth the pain! 

The mount Bromo ascent is open to anyone. You basically wake up at 2.30 am, get in your private Jeep for an hour, and finally climb a few stairs to enjoy the sunrise (which is around 5 am) on the Bromo. 

Right after, you go back down the valley, and climb what you previously looked at. The ascent of the Mount Bromo takes about 30/45 minutes. Unfortunately, the easiness of the ascent makes it quite crowded, and the number of jeeps driving around is impressive. 

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Unlike the Bromo, the Ijen doesn't attract too much tourists yet. Mainly because this volcano is way harder to climb than its cousin. However, you can go at your own rhythm, and make a few breaks on the way (do not forget to bring a flash light. As you are climbing during the night, you won't be able to see further than your own feet!). 

But to deserve the climb, you first need to jump on your car and be patient for the next 7 hours of drive, that actually allows you to rest a little bit!
Then comes the hardest part.... Waking up at 00.30 am!

You start your ascent a few minutes later, eyes still being blurry, and steps slightly approximate. It takes probably 2 hours to arrive at the top, after which you go down the crater.

At this time, you will be able to notice that a weird reaction is happening down there (and that you didn't wake up at a crazy hour for nothing!): the blue fire.


I recommend to stay in the crater until the sun is up. That gives you enough time to see the blue fire from closer, and to discuss a bit with your guide. Then will appear a big acid lake in front of you, with beautiful colors.
Take a few pictures, and brave the climb up to the top of the Ijen.

Once on the peak, enjoy the magnificent view in front of you. You can finally realize where you are, and what did you previously climb in the dark night.

What follows is just anecdotal: the descent of the volcano, and a few hours drive to Surabaya.

Itinerary:

• Thursday afternoon: Flight to Surabaya + 4h drive to Mount Bromo
• Friday morning: Wake up at 2.30 am for the first Ascent: Mount Bromo + 7h drive to Kawah Ijen
• Saturday morning: Wake up at 00.30 am to climb the Kawah Ijen + 7h drive to Surabaya
• Sunday morning: Flight back to Singapore

You could also arrive in Surabaya Thursday evening, drive to Mount Bromo on Friday morning, and do the two ascents on Saturday and Sunday morning, then take a flight back on Sunday night to Singapore.

What to bring: flash light, respiratory mask, sweat pant & hot clothes, running shoes and a backpack.


Contact: Tommy: blueisland_024@yahoo.com​
Price per pax: 1.5 million IDR:
Price includes hotel rooms + breakfast, pick up from Surabaya airport, transfert to Mount Bromo and Kawah Injen, and drop off in Surabaya in a private car, entrance fees, and the 2 climbs.

Flights:
Various flights from Singapore with Air Asia and Tiger Air

Rooftop Bar: Fabrika @ Klapsons Hotel

Klapsons Boutique Hotel is located 10 minutes walk from Tanjong Pagar MRT. The street has no interest, except for the hotel and its rooftop bar.

As soon as you reach the rooftop you're immersed in this arabic atmosphere. The lamps could have been taken from Aladdin movie; couches and seats are big enough for you to be seated comfortably, and a nice live band is playing lounge & pop music. Surprisingly there are lots of tables available and we don't have issues finding one.


The hotel is right behind Keppel Viaduct, which gives you a great and original view on the port. On the other side, a few buildings from the CBD are popping up.

We will come back for:
- The view
- The live band & lounge atmosphere
- The happy hour (1 for 1 until 8pm)


Fabrika @ Klapsons Boutique Hotel
15 Hoe Chain Road
MRT: Tanjong Pagar

Indian treats @ Mustafa Center

Follow the signs on the ground of Mustafa Center, and take the elevator to the rooftop, you will discover a hidden restaurant with a decent terrace where you can enjoy your dinner.

The place is surprisingly nice: the decoration is sober, meals are good value for money, and they serve hundreds of great Indian dishes.
The plates are quite big (around 12 SGD/dish). You may share a dish if you have ordered appetizers before. Don't expect to have nice desserts, they don't really have good ones here; but you might be too full anyway to fancy one!

Give it a try, it's a nice address - and not expensive - to enjoy dinner with family or friends. However they don't serve any alcohol, you gotta go for the Virgin Mojito or Mango lassi!


Kebabs & Curries @ Mustafa Center (entry 5 or 6)
- Also deliver at home -
Syed Alwi Road
MRT: Farrer Park

Hoi An: Haven of Peace

Part of the UNESCO heritage, Hoi An is a haven of peace in the midst of a noisy country. I had a crush for that little city, where time had stopped for a while.

Cars are forbidden in the city, which makes it perfect for tourists to visit it by bike or walk. 

The town is very small, you only have two main streets, but it doesn't mean you will be bored in here. 

The main attractions are around lanterns and tailors. Hence, you will probably find yourself spending minutes, that become hours in one of these shops. 

If you have a specific idea of the clothes you'd like to have, come with pictures of your items and let the tailor operates! 

Apart from shopping, Hoi An is a melting pot that kept advantages of every civilization that came in the city. You will eat a French Baguette with the traditional Cau Lao, pass the Japanese Bridge, and admire Chinese temples. 

They propose a good option that allows you to visit 5 places in town for 25 USD. 

Among all the places you can visit thanks to the pass, I'd recommend the Chinese temple, and the japanese bridge that will bring you to the oldest house in Hoi An (right after the bridge, on your right). 

At night, the only thing you need to do is: open your eyes! 

The lanterns rekindle the city harmoniously and provide a peaceful atmosphere.

You can walk around and enjoy a tasteful mango ice cream near by the river.

For the next days: 

Once your shopping and cultural activities are done, you have several choices. You can either rent a bike and drive 3km to the first beach, or spend the day visiting My Son or the Marble Mountain. 

However, if you have more time, you may go visit the imperial city: Hué. 

How to go?

Jetstar - Thursday to Sunday

• Tursday: Singapore - Ho Chi Minh - 7.35pm - 20.35pm
• Friday: Ho Chi Minh - Da Nang - 6.15am - 7.30am  
• Sunday: Da Nang - HCMC - 2.40pm - 3.55pm
• HCMC - Singapore - 6pm - 8.55pm with Tiger Air

Where to eat?

• Bazar Café - 36 Tran Phu
• For a French Croissant or 'Pain au Chocolat' - Cargo Club - 107 NGuyen Thai Hoc Street
• Hai Café - 111 Tran Phu Street

For a French speaking tailor?

Van Cloth Shop - 113 Tran Phu Street

Where to sleep?

Vinh Hung Emerald Resort

http://www.vinhhungemeraldresort.com/